Sunday, April 10, 2011

Building a Chicken Coop, Part 3

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4

Once the outriggers were attached, we could proceed to putting the roof decking on, and the sheathing.

My personal opinion is that plywood is superior to OSB as roof decking, thus justifying the additional expense. Plywood is more resistant to impact, and its edges aren't damaged as easily. It also has better fastener pullout resistance. After cutting, some of the smaller panels I could attach by standing up through the rafters on a ladder. Eventually I had to build a scaffolding to get the bigger sheets in place. Once the roof decking was on I started work on the eave and rake fascia, which are made from 1x6 boards. The shed starts to look a lot better once these are in place. I used my air brad nailer to attach the fascia instead of using  finishing nails.


Next step was to get the sheathing on. I used 7/16 OSB to sheath the walls. The trick here is to push the structure to get it plumb, then tack the sheathing in place. It is very easy to "rack" the structure when there is no sheathing. I can push it 2-3 inches or more in any direction with my hand easily - since there is not yet any lateral stability. Once the sheathing is in place, the coop became extremely rigid. I had to cut off 1" from each 4'x8' piece to get it to fit under the rafter overhang. It overlaps and is nailed to the lower platform frame as well, which adds considerable strength.


As is standard framing practice, I sheathed over the doors completely, then drove nails through at all 4 corners from the inside, and snapped chalk lines between the nails. Then I set my circular saw to a depth of 1/2", and cut the door out. I left the other door sheathed over as I only need one to get inside for now.


The next step was to waterproof the framing. Its been very rainy this spring, so this step was critical to protect it from damage during the week (when I cannot work on it). There is a specific order that must be followed, however. The first step here was to prime and paint the fascia board, which I did. The reason for this step was the drip edge I need to install overlaps it, and I would not otherwise be able to paint it once that was up. Once that dried, I setup some scaffolding to actually get to the roof.I used 2x4's attached to the sides, and a 2x8 that I can walk on. I got the drip edge on the eave fascias, nailed it in place, and then tar papered the roof on both sides, with my hammer tacker. After the tar paper, the rake drip edge could go on, since it must overlap the tar paper and the eave edge.


At this point the roof is waterproof until I get the shingles on. Tar paper will last a few months in the weather before it degrades from the sun. I went ahead and added the gable sheathing at this point as well, jsut after the following picture was taken.


But the sheathing also needs protection until I can get the siding on, so I began attaching tar paper from the bottom up, to maintain an overlap to shed water. Tar paper comes in 3-foot wide rolls. I needed two rolls to get both the roof and the sides done, although most of the last roll was not used. I'll save it for a future roofing project.


Later I attached some plastic to the door opening to keep the rain out. At least now every time it rains the whole structure doesn't get soaked inside.

Finished up at: http://glenn.hackleman.net/chickens.php

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